Stephen van Eeden is a well-established fashion designer in Cape Town, South Africa, who has dressed many local celebrities like Natasha Joubert and Minki van der Westhuizen. He spoke to SMF News journalist, Mia van der Merwe, about his brand, his life and advice he has for young working designers.
Stephen van Eeden, South African fashion designer, launched his own brand ‘Stephen van Eeden’ in 2014. PHOTO: Mia van der Merwe
From living in a small town in the Northern Cape to grazing the red carpets of South Africa, Stephen van Eeden has dressed many celebrities and is referred to as a luxury designer in Glamour magazine. The designer’s atelier is tucked into a studio in Woodstock where he creates, fits and fine tunes.
“Huisgenoot, Sarie and Rooi Rose”
For every school oral Stephen expressed his dreams of becoming a dentist, before his horizons had broadened and his call to the red carpet became too loud to ignore, according to Stephen.
Stephen is originally from Kathu, a small town in the Northern Cape, and has dreamed of creating luxurious gowns for women since he was 15, he says. However there weren’t a lot of big fashion magazines that appealed to his interest in glamourous evening gowns in the small Karoo town. “We only had Huisgenoot, Sarie and Rooi Rose,” he adds.
In the 80’s and 90’s, fashion was quite contested, whereas today’s fashion realm is a lot more “relaxed”, says Stephen. “Back then you had to wear the latest things, otherwise you’re not cool,” he says.
Growing up, Stephen would watch the Oscars award ceremonies and admire the glamorous red carpet looks, dreaming to one day create those sorts of gowns. This is evident in his brand, Stephen says.
During his early high school days he realised his dream to become a fashion designer and in 2005, he went to study fashion at Elizabeth Galloway fashion school in Stellenbosch, he says.
Stephen van Eeden’s grandmother was a dressmaker, so he saw fashion as a natural career option, the designer says. PHOTO: Mia van der Merwe
“I graduated in 2007, and my first job was as an accessory designer, where I designed luxury accessories for Cape Cobra Leather Craft, that does product development for big international luxury brands,” Stephen says.
Although he was only making accessories at the time, he was further asserting himself in the broader fashion world and competed in young designer competitions, like the MTN Durban Fashion Week, he adds.
After leaving Cape Cobra Leather Craft, Stephen and his fellow designer friend, Teresa Joubert co-established a design studio called Gelieft, in Stellenbosch.
Stephen simultaneously worked for established South African designer, Gavin Raja, spending seven years in the work room behind the sewing machine, he says. In 2014, Stephen left Raja’s atelier to launch his own brand, Stephen van Eeden, after working and gaining the necessary experience, Stephen adds.
Behind the brand
Stephen prefers to relax at home when he is not at work, says Wayne Tucker, Stephen’s husband.
In his downtime, Stephen enjoys cooking, watching a movie (for 10 minutes before he falls asleep) and walking his dogs, which he has four of; three dachshunds and a foster, he explains.
“He is wonderful in the kitchen and is forever dreaming up dishes with a ‘Stephen van Eeden twist’,” Wayne adds.
Stephen often hosts dinner parties for him and his friends, who he is “fiercely loyal to”, he says.
Stephen van Eeden, South African fashion designer, enjoys working with feathers, beads and tulle and contends that as long as a design is not boring, he is happy. PHOTO: Mia van der Merwe
“Feminine, modern and glamourous”
“Feminine, modern and glamourous. I love those three words, because it describes my style. I can do simple, clean and modern, but it’s not my brand without that glamourous aspect,” Stephen says. Each original Stephen van Eeden couture piece has an element of surprise and drama, whether that be a long dramatic train or extravagant and luxurious feathers, he adds.
Stephen proclaims that his biggest accomplishment is running his business the way he wants and creating job opportunities in his atelier. The secret to maintaining a successful business lies in his effort in curating a workspace where his employees “love what they do”, he explains.
Stephen has dressed many big names within the South African landscape, including Rolene Strauss, Jordan van der Vyver, Luvé Meyer, and some Miss SA contestants such as Shudufhadzo Musida who was crowned Miss SA in 2020. He has dressed Natasha Joubert, our current Miss SA, as well, he says.
Before dressing these household names, Minki van der Westhuizen, South African model and talk-show host, was the first big name that started to support and follow the Stephen van Eeden brand, Stephen recalls.
“I would help her at the drop of a hat… she is someone that is very loyal to my business,” he adds.
“Stephen’s craftsmanship is top quality and the way his dresses and clothes fit a woman’s body, is exceptional,” says Minki. “Every time I wear one of his outfits I feel like a million dollars.”
A modest expansion
During the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020, Stephen started another brand with a colleague, Maghoebah Manual Kahn, who also works on the Van Eeden brand.
Maghoebah and Stephen met while they were both working at Gavin Raja, where they dreamed up a modest and diverse brand that will appeal to more people, Maghoebah says.
MMXMS is a fashion label focusing on modest and conservative fashion pieces that are more accessible “ready-to-wear” pieces “…from the atelier to their closets,” Stephen explains.
“Working with Stephen is very stressful, because everything is so fast paced and he is very passionate,” Maghoebah adds.
“I like having a bit of drama in each piece, something that is an element of surprise,” says Stephen van Eeden, South African fashion designer. PHOTO: Mia van der Merwe
Shedding a light in the dark
Stephen often works with fundraising events and asserts that fashion can be used to create conversational opportunities where a light can be shed onto specific institutions or organisations.
Stephen has been involved with the Bubbles & Bliss events for five years now, Stephen says.
Bubbles & Bliss is an annual fundraising event for StellCare/StellSorg: Stellenbosch and Districts Family Services, according to their website.
“I think that philanthropic stance is important, as a luxury brand, where expensive things are being crafted while people are suffering. I think using your craft like that to shed light on bigger issues is important,” he adds.
Timeless designs that eye sustainability
When it comes to custom designer pieces, sustainability means being timeless and reusing and re-wearing your piece for years to come, Stephen explains.
“I try to create timeless pieces that could possibly be an heirloom, or given a second life,” Stephen says.
Quality is key to creating pieces that last longer. Not only does it need to look and feel good, but it needs to crafted in a way that ensures it will last a very long time, he adds.
“We also rarely throw away any cut offs and scraps. We keep [scraps] aside for Monkeybiz, which is a non-profit organisation that reworks the fabrics into new, creative and trendy products like lampshades, pot plant baskets or beaded work,” says Stephen.
For about five years, South African fashion designer, Stephen van Eeden, had his atelier at his home., Last year he moved into a studio in Woodstock, Cape Town (pictured).He enjoys his work environment being separate from his home now, he says. PHOTO: Mia van der Merwe
Education is key
Quality is key, and creating timeless pieces that have a significant impact that spark conversations are vital to Stephen’s legacy, which is why he is open to passing on his knowledge to help bring progressive changes to the fashion landscape, he says.
Stephen is at the forefront of young people working hard and educating themselves to gain the necessary knowledge in the industry.
“Young fashion students today just want to walk out of college and start their own business. They don’t want to work for someone else,” Stephen explains.
Working and learning the ropes of the fashion industry under Stephen’s wings comes with many “amazing” moments and great opportunities, says Jané van Tonder, Stephen’s assistant.
Jané has gotten more opportunities to learn about the fashion processes and designing on a deeper level, and gets to do a bit of everything, she says.
Jané gets to do a bit of everything, whether it’s organising, tidying up, getting models ready or cutting up some fabric when the atelier is under a lot of work stress, she adds.
“No days are ever the same,” she adds.
Stephen contends that people should be exceptionally versatile and adaptable. “One moment you’re in, the next you’re out. If you don’t produce and keep your readership or sales in a good place, they replace you,” he adds.